Friday, 19 September 2008

16th – 19th September 2008 Whale & Dolphin Theme Cruise Trip Report

This was the third of four Themed Cruises for 2008 and it turned out to be another good trip. Nine different cetacean species were sighted including three different dolphin species, Long-Finned Pilot Whale and Fin Whale, and a total of 440 individual animals were seen. The exhilaration of seeing dolphins and whales in their natural element, some next to the ship, must rank as one of the top natural history experiences in the World.
In addition, 18 species of seabird were also recorded including Sooty Shearwater, Sabine’s Gull, Great Shearwater, European Storm Petrel and Leach’s Petrel. 15 migratory bird species were also sighted heading south including Merlin, Northern Wheatear, Chiff Chaff and Cetti’s Warbler.

There were several familiar faces on the trip as well as many new faces who we hope will become familiar in the future as our Themed Cruises are now attracting a regular following of keen sea-going naturalists. It is always such a privilege to be able to share in the exultation experienced by those on our Themed Cruises and, it has to be said, the enthusiastic reactions were just the same whether from a returnee or from a newcomer to this fantastic experience.

The weather conditions were good for the trip and this aided us greatly in sighting cetaceans in the wild. This makes it a lot easier to pick out animals some distance away and certainly added to our enjoyment of the experiences we had.

The trip was busy, with some 120 passengers travelling and expectations were high as the BDRP team introduced themselves and welcomed people on board the Pride of Bilbao on the first evening.

The cruise program followed its tried and tested formula, with constant assisted watches on 11 deck from 11.00am on the first day and with guided visits to the monkey island deck (which acts as a wonderful viewing platform situated above the bridge) on the 17th and 18th. As ever these guided visits remained extremely popular. The first morning started with presentations on the whales, dolphins and seabirds that we could hope to see on the trip and some background to BDRP’s continuing marine conservation work in Biscay. On the last day there was a follow-up session on the trip’s sightings and a Q&A session with the team.
Day 1
As we headed southbound into the Northern Bay, watching began in earnest just before lunchtime on the 17th after the early-morning presentation. Fortunately, weather conditions were good and a sea state of 3-4 aided sightings early sightings in the English Channel and continental shelf waters of Northern Biscay. Good groups of Harbour Porpoise was seen from the back deck, one group disturbing a small flock of European Storm-Petrel on the sea surface as they surfaced just in front of the ship.

As is typical with the first day there was a little lull in activity through the early afternoon. But expectation grew as we came closer to the continental shelf edge. As this was a specific P&O / BDRP whale and dolphin theme cruise Clive asked the captain if it was possible to get to the continental shelf edge as quickly as possible. This allows us to spend the maximum amount of time available cruising along the best areas of the shelf break where we might encounter the most whale and dolphin activity. The continental shelf break was crossed at around 15.30 and we started to cross deeper water.

However, dolphin encounters started in early-afternoon with Common Dolphin and good views were had as small groups came in to bow ride the ship. An excellent sighting of a breaching Minke Whale ahead of the ship was seen close by a large feeding frenzy of Common Dolphin, accompanied by many sea birds including around 150 Gannets.

Common Dolphin - Photo by Rick Morris

Shortly before we started to cross the continental break, we encountered a large raft of various Shearwater species including Sooty, Great & Balearic Shearwater and 2 Great Skua. Once crossing the deeper water we started to encounter 2 small Long-Finned Pilot Whale groups in quick succession.

A slightly frustrating sighting of a tight-knit group of Striped Dolphin followed. The animals were only 1000 metres away from the ship when first sighted, but heading away from us travelling fast. However, good views of these acrobatic mammals were had through binoculars.

Fin Whale and large Rorqual species started soon after and a total of 13 definite Fin Whale and 34 large Rorqual Whale species were seen in the northern slope region throughout the afternoon and evening. Two animal offered good close views passing close by the ship allowing all the passengers to appreciate how big these fantastic animals really are!

Another group of Striped Dolphin containing around 60 animals came by. Again, they were not interested in coming in to bow-ride the vessel as is often the way with this species. However, they were reasonably close and offered good views of a large group.

A difficult sighting of an adult Sperm Whale got everyone scanning the seas. Although passing close by, the animal proved somewhat elusive after showing so well ahead of the ship.

Bird sightings were very good, which was expected for the time of year. An excellent flock of 60 Sabine’s Gulls and 5 Long-Tailed Skua showed well for some time and we recorded good numbers of this species. Migrating terrestrial birds were in good supply and throughout the day we recorded Swallow, House Martin, Collared Dove, Sparrowhawk, Kestrel, Turnstone, Northern Wheatear, Yellow Wagtail, Alba Wagtail, Chiff Chaff, Cetti’s Warbler as well as a small flock of 12 Dabbling Ducks. It is always amazing to see these small birds on their migration through the middle of the Bay of Biscay! We even had about 15 Large White butterflies making their migration across Northern Biscay!


Day 2
We arrived in Bilbao in the early morning of the 18th and everybody went ashore to enjoy the various activities laid on by P&O during their short stay. Some of us decided to stretch our legs with a saunter up Mount Serantes behind the ferry terminal and a good variety of birds, butterflies, insects and plant life were seen including Ortolan Bunting, Red-Backed Shrike, Cirl Bunting, Pied Flycatcher, Spotted Flycatcher, Turtle Dove, Serin, Black Redstart and Melodious & Sardinian Warblers. Insects included Common and Adonis Blue and a Stick Insect. A sighting was also had of a Slow Worm.

By 1215 hrs ship’s time we were on our way once more northbound and we eagerly awaited the passage into the deeper water and across the Cap Breton Canyon – home to the sometimes elusive beaked whale species. We were not to be disappointed, with a close view of one Cuvier’s Beaked Whale over the canyons.

However, a report of 2 Bottlenose Dolphin being seen in the harbour itself half an hour before departure had everyone scanning the seas as we left Santurzi. Unfortunately, we were not able to pick these animals up again, but were soon entertained with good views of 2 Fin Whale in around 750 metres depth of water which is quite shallow for these large mammals. Two separate sightings of Ocean Sunfish were also had early on including one sunfish which breached out of the water giving everyone clear views of their bizarre shape.

An excellent sighting of 35 Bottlenose Dolphin soon made up for the animals missed in Santurzi Harbour and these ever popular dolphins entertained us with their acrobatic displays behind the vessel in the wake wave. At the same time, we were not disappointed in our hunt for the elusive Cuvier’s Beaked Whale with 2 animals surfacing a little way off the ship down the port side. However, a much closer sighting was being reserved for later in the afternoon of this rare and charismatic Beaked Whale.

Straight after this little flurry of activity, 2 further small Beaked Whales were sighted well ahead of the ship. Their size indicated that they were from the Mesoplodon genus of Beaked Whales, but unfortunately as often happens, they dived before we reached their position and a more precise identification could not be made.

Fin Whale and large Rorqual species continued throughout the afternoon and evening and in total 15 Large Rorqual Whale, 24 definite Fin Whale and 1 possible Sei Whale were sighted. The possible Sei Whale was seen hanging low in the water and appeared to have a taller, much more erect dorsal fin than the accompanying Fin Whale. However, these two species are notoriously difficult to differentiate between and a definitive identification could not be made as the animals were slightly too distant.

Birds were much quieter on this leg of the journey although good views were again had of Sabine’s Gull, as well as additional sightings of Yellow-Legged Gull and a Merlin on migration.

The day was rounded off with a stunning sunset, although the infamous green flash was not seen! Once again, everyone had a fantastic afternoon of whale watching in the Bay of Biscay.
Day 3
Well within the western Channel by morning, we steamed homewards as Clive gave a round up and debrief for the trip. As people came back on deck for the final few hours of the trip, 3 Risso’s Dolphin were sighted close by the port side of the ship. Unfortunately, there was no sign of the Humpback Whale which had been sighted 20 NNW of Guernsey on the previous Saturday despite many eyes searching hard for this unusual visitor.

A Honey Buzzard was seen late on in the day, drifting south slowly from St Catherine’s Point on the south of the Isle of Wight. This was interesting following the reports of high numbers of migrating Honey Buzzard off the south east and east coast of the UK over the weekend. All too soon we were passing the Nab Tower and an hour later secured our berth at Portsmouth.
So, the Bay of Biscay has come up trumps once again and supplied us with some wonderful memories of whales and dolphins and other marine life. Everyone was delighted and we are looking forward to welcoming yet more familiar faces again on the next trip. We really are lucky to have these charismatic cetaceans living such a relatively short journey away.

The BDRP Team
Clive, Emma, John, Adrian, James, Darren, Andrew, Suzie, Peter & Tony